Last summer, I completed a 10-day grand road trip loop through northern Spain. Starting from Valencia, we traveled through Zaragoza, Olite, Bilbao, Santander, Comillas, Covadonga, Salamanca, Ávila, and Madrid, finally returning to Valencia after lunch in the cliff town of Cuenca. This journey offered a mix of cities, ancient castles, mountains, the sea, and delicious food. This article shares all the details of our trip for four people, serving as a direct reference for anyone interested.
Day 1|Valencia → Zaragoza
- Accommodation: Casa Palacio de Los Sitios ¥772.67 (1 night, 1 double bed + 2 single beds, no breakfast)
- Sightseeing: Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar + Ancient Bridge + Ebro River
- Restaurant: Restaurante Nola Gras, an award-winning, high-value restaurant. There’s a parking lot and an M supermarket across the street. Their signature dishes are the Russian caviar salad and the molten cheesecake, perfect for those who love exploring authentic local cuisine.
Day 2|Zaragoza → Olite
- Accommodation: Hotel Alda Castillo de Olite ¥1117.47 (1 night, 1 double bed + 2 single beds, no breakfast)
- Sightseeing: Royal Palace of Olite (Palacio Real de Olite), considered one of the most luxurious medieval castles. Built in the 13th-14th centuries, it has over 300 rooms, Moorish-style courtyards, and a special ice well for storing food. It’s great for in-depth tours and photography.
Day 3|Olite → Bilbao
- Accommodation: NH Collection Villa de Bilbao ¥2200 (2 standard rooms, no meals)
- Booked for 12:30: Visit to the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (Guggenheim Bilbao Museoa, €13 ticket, closed on Mondays, recommend at least 2 hours).
- Sightseeing:
- Walk along the Nervión River to enjoy the city scenery.
- The flower dog sculpture (Puppy) and the 9-meter-tall giant spider sculpture at the entrance of the Guggenheim Museum are must-see landmarks.
- Zubizuri Bridge, beautiful at night, with a flower market on weekends.
- The riverside train station also offers a nice night view.
- Chávarri Palace (Txabarri Jauregia), a yellow-green palace near the museum with distinctive architecture.
- Arriaga Theatre, elegant in style.
- Boat tour (City Hall—Deusto Canal—Portugalete Bridge—Getxo—Santurtzi fishing port), a fun way to see the sights.
- Vizcaya Bridge (Bizkaiko Zubia), a UNESCO World Heritage site. A red iron bridge with a cable car ride for just €1.
- Food:
- Café Iruna: An old establishment from 1903, part bar, part restaurant. The grilled lamb skewers and various tapas are very popular. Reservations are needed for main meals, but tapas can be ordered anytime. The retro decor is very photogenic.
- Mio Basque Urban Food: Rated 4.7. The onsen egg with mushrooms and foie gras, steak, and cheesecake with a scoop of blueberry ice cream are all recommended.
- Basque Cheesecake: A local specialty available in two flavors: strong (fuerte) and mild (suave).
- Cantoki Jatetxea: Rated 4.9, near Cruces station on Line 2. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get a reservation.
- Goizeko Izarra steakhouse and La Casita de Sabino fish restaurant: Closed on Sundays, so we couldn’t try them.
We passed by Dragonstone (Gaztelugatxe), but unfortunately, tickets were sold out. I even set an alarm for 14:55 to try and grab any same-day leftover tickets (Ticket website: https://www.tiketa.eus/gaztelugatxe/).
Day 4|Bilbao → Santander
- Accommodation: Silken Rio Santander Hotel, ¥2800 (2 rooms, breakfast included)
- Booked for 10:30: Visit to the Magdalena Palace (Palacio de la Magdalena), exiting at 11:15. Tickets are €6. Open on Sundays from 10:45-13:00. Recommended to allow 1-2 hours. The palace is located on a headland within a royal park, offering stunning views.
- Attractions:
- Centro Botín: Drove by for a quick look without stopping. Modern exterior.
- Maritime Museum (Museo Marítimo): €8 ticket, open 10:00–18:00 on Sundays. Worth a visit if you’re interested in maritime culture.
- Parque Marino de la Magdalena: A beach park with sea lions, great for photos.
- Cabárceno Nature Park (Entrada este cabarceno): A wildlife park suitable for families.
- Restaurants:
- Taberna La Radio: A 20-year-old local seafood restaurant. The ambiance is average, but the seafood is superb. Five-star value for money.
- Restaurante La Gruta de Jose (The Cave Restaurant): Near the port and Centro Botín, rated 4.7. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get a reservation.
- Comillas:
- Gaudí’s Caprice (El Capricho de Gaudí): €7 ticket, open 10:30-19:30 on Sundays. This building is a masterpiece from when Gaudí was 30. The owner was an artistic, newly rich bachelor. The garden’s hydrangeas are in full bloom from July to September.
- Palace of Sobrellano (Palacio de Sobrellano): €5 ticket, open 10:00-15:30 on Sundays. Next to it is a cultural center. The blue-patterned main gate is very photogenic.
- These two attractions are close to each other and share a medium-sized free parking lot with free public restrooms, which is very convenient.
- Restaurant: El Remedio, an exquisite seaside restaurant located between Santander and Comillas. It features an old house, a church, a garden, and a cliffside beach. Rated 4.6, highly recommended in the summer.
Day 5-6|Santander → Covadonga (2 nights)
- Accommodation: HOTEL CERRO LA NINA, €837 for 2 nights (approx. ¥6600). A mountaintop hotel with breathtaking views.
- Attraction 1: Mirador de Entrelagos (Lakes of Covadonga). You need to take a special bus into the mountains for €8 per person. There are mainly 2 glacial lakes and 1 old mine. It’s suitable for a 2-3 hour hike.
- Attraction 2: The pink-walled Basilica of Covadonga, free entry. There’s a special bus stop nearby. Not far away is the Holy Cave, a sanctuary built into a cave with a mystical atmosphere.
- Town of Cangas de Onís: The largest town near Covadonga, where you can eat, stay, and stock up on supplies. It’s also the starting point for the special bus line. The environment is beautiful, and there’s a market on weekends.
- Main attraction: The Roman Bridge with a cross. The bridge itself is average but famous for its religious significance.
- Hotel Santa Cruz (3-star): Located on the edge of town. Nice environment, small rooms, soundproofing unknown. It’s across from restaurant #3 and within walking distance of the town center and the stone bridge.
- Restaurants:
- La Madreñería: Signature dish is Cachopo (a breaded beef fillet stuffed with ham, sweet peppers, and white asparagus). The portions are huge, so ordering a half portion is recommended.
- La Sifoneria: Retro decor, blue chairs, and great food.
- Restaurante Villa Maria: A manor restaurant. We couldn’t try it as it was booked for a wedding.
- Special Experience: Take the main road uphill from the entrance of restaurant #3 to enter a pristine small village. It’s a pastoral scene with narrow roads. You can find wild chestnuts (abundant in October, sweet but some have worms). Highly recommended.
Day 7|Covadonga → Salamanca (via Ávila)
- Accommodation: Melia Las Claras Boutique Hotel
- Salamanca Sightseeing:
- University of Salamanca, one of the oldest universities in the world. Look for the frog sculpture, which is said to bring academic success.
- Salamanca Cathedral (ticket required). Both the exterior and interior are incredibly photogenic, especially the mysterious astronaut carving. You can climb the tower for a panoramic view of the city, but the stairs are steep, so those with a fear of heights should be cautious.
- Plaza Mayor: One of the most beautiful squares in Spain. It’s surrounded by cafes and restaurants where you can sunbathe and enjoy food. There are often performances in the square, making it very lively. The architecture and sculptures are also great for photos.
- House of Shells (Casa de las Conchas): A charming two-story building that houses a public library with a small courtyard for resting. The shell carvings are very distinctive, a must-see for photos.
- La Clerecía Church: The ticket to the top is only €3.25. From the top, you can see all of Salamanca. There are very few tourists, making it a great spot for photos.
- Strolling through the university and the old town feels like stepping back in time to an ancient European academic institution.
- Ávila (en route):
- Known as the “City of Stones” and “City of Saints,” it was declared a World Heritage site in 1985. At an altitude of 1131 meters, it is the highest provincial capital in Spain.
- Medieval City Walls (Muralla Medieval): The best-preserved in Europe, 2.5 km long with 6 gates, 88 towers, and about 2500 merlons. You can walk on the walls from the Puerta del Alcázar, Puerta de la Lealtad, or Puerta del Carmen.
- Ávila Cathedral: Has a fortress-like appearance, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles. The main altarpiece’s reliquary is a highlight.
- Basilica of San Vicente: A 12th-century Romanesque building containing the cenotaph of the martyr Saint Vincent and his family. The tomb’s decorations depict scenes from their lives.
- Royal Monastery of Saint Thomas (Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás): A 15th-century Isabelline Gothic style building, with the tomb of Prince Juan as a highlight.
- Convent of Saint Teresa (Convento de Santa Teresa): Built on the site of her birthplace, it features a Baroque and Neoclassical church, an orchard, and a museum.
- The Four Posts (Los Cuatro Postes): Located 2 km from the city, beside the road to Salamanca. It’s the best spot for panoramic photos of Ávila.
Day 8-9|Madrid (2 nights)
- Accommodation: Woohoo Rooms Fuencarral, no meals, ¥2204.33 for 2 nights (1 double bed + 2 single beds).
The central location in Madrid is excellent, allowing for easy access to major attractions and food streets on foot or by metro.
Day 10|Madrid → Cuenca → Valencia
On the last day, we drove to the cliff city of Cuenca. We had lunch at a restaurant next to the Hanging Houses in Cuenca’s old town, enjoying the view of the gorge and taking photos. After lunch, we drove back to Valencia, concluding our northern Spain loop trip.
Trip Tips
- Book tickets and popular restaurants in advance, especially for places like Dragonstone, museums, and Gaudí’s Caprice, which sell out quickly in peak season.
- Most attractions and restaurants have associated parking or free public restrooms. Notably, the two main attractions in Comillas share a free parking lot, making travel hassle-free.
- There’s a significant temperature difference between day and night in the highlands and mountains. It’s advisable to bring a jacket, and comfortable walking shoes are a must.
- For food, try local restaurants and old establishments. Highly-rated small eateries often hold pleasant surprises.